Apartment Hunting

I have to apologize for not posting these past few days, but that does not mean we have not be busy. We've actually been apartment hunting and proving to every prospective land lord that we are good people (even though some here wonder about the sanity of Americans these days)  The process is not much different than in the states, except we are the foreigners with a lot to prove.  It's a real catch 22, "do you have a bank account?" no, they need an address - can't get the address until you rent, "do you have utility bills in your name here in Ireland?" no, not until we rent an apartment.  "Do you have references from your previous land lord?" no, we've been homeowners for more than 40 years.  It goes on and on. I think the key has been to meet face-to-face with these folks so they know we are in earnest, safe and not too crazy.  (well maybe I am a wee bit crazy)  We've been told various stories about a couple of buildings we were looking at from some of the locals: 'don't rent there the building is shit', or "don't rent there the insulation is terrible, you'll freeze in the winter."

We finally found the apartment that suits us and hopefully we suit them.  We have an appointment to sign the lease agreement Monday afternoon.  It's an older building, but has a fireplace and killer view of River Shannon and an operating lock right outside our patio.(we've been through a few of those)  So when at home we can watch boats come and go. The apartment is furnished with just the bare basics so we'll need to find a few items for our own comfort - like a lamp here and there. But again, that's part of the challenge of this adventure.  It seems most units are independently owned - not your typical apartment building with a manager on-site.  Which is actually a good thing since most units would be occupied by owners.  We are very excited at the prospect of getting into our own place and out of B&B's and hotels.  

Once settled (and we have internet)  I'll start posting some more of our adventures, I've already crossed off a couple of items from my list and can't wait to tell you about them.  

Shannon Weir

Oh yea - you can hear the Church bells  every hour from St Peter and Paul downtown

Corner House Cafe

Kevin

This is another one of those gems we've found along the way - somewhere between Westport and Athlone along some very random small roadway.  Walked in the door the counter displays were filled with wonderful looking goodies, smells yummy, obviously all homemade and there was this little boy peeking at us from behind the counter.  I said 'hello' are you going to help us (?) and he say's "no" and runs away yelling "Mum, there's people here".  Turns out he did assist his Mum and served our scones and empty tea/coffee cups (he's not allowed to carry hot things).  The cafe was painted with great little sayings, wonderful cheerful place - although there was one old man sitting in the corner, looking grumpy as hell, eating steak and eggs. I smiled at him and he only grunted back at me.  Turns out Kevin's mum moved there from England a few years ago and has been running this cafe and B&B and seems to making a good go of it.  The coffee, tea and raisin scones were very good in-deed.

All hand painted signs

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Clews Bay

A few days ago we traveled to Westport, a nice little 'destination' town along the west coast of Ireland.  We booked 5 nights wondering if this would be a good place to settle  As we've driven around we have discovered it's rather out of the way for doing the touring of the entire country we are hoping to do.  Still seems like Athlone would be our best choice.  However that won't stop us from seeing and doing as much as we can everywhere we go.  There are lots of nooks and crannies tucked in around every corner.  When we find great treasure locations I'll need to look up facts about the place for my own understanding as well as explaining to you what it is your are looking at. 

Such a place is Murrisk Friary on south shore of Clew Bay in the shadow of Croagh Patrick (which is another great location which we will have to discover at a later date when we are physically ready to climb a mountain).  But today was the ruins and graveyard of the Murrisk Friary. Here goes the history lesson - the origin of the name Murrisk is believed to be that of "muir riasc" a sea monster worshiped in pre-Christian times.  The Augustine friars (Hugh O'Malley specifically) founded the Friary in 1457.  One small house and chapel are all that remain (other that the souls buried here).  At some point, it was dedicate to St. Patrick.  The friars were driven out in the late 16th century during the reformation. 

Adjoining the location is the famous, and very moving National Famine Ship memorial sculpture.  This exquisite piece by John Behan commemorates the great famine of the 1840's  and honors the "many emigrants from the Irish famine who died in the appalling conditions aboard the coffin ships on which they left Ireland".



PHOTO ALBUM

Ennis

Ennis is a wonderful town, typical of narrow streets (and sidewalks) lined with colorful buildings and lots of traffic.  Tucked here and there are the many little places to eat, down alley's and around corners - you just have to walk around until one strikes your fancy and you are hit with their ambience that say's STOP HERE.  These are the spots we look for in each town.  We found such a place on our firs day the "Ennis Gourmet Store".  Owner Dave joined us for a brief moment before serving up our wonderful sandwiches, tea and Americana coffee.  Sitting outside watching the constant parade of people, children and pets hearing that Irish brogue - it's a delightful thing to do.  If you are attentive enough you'll also find those weird little sculptures and statues.   You know me, I love to find the unusual everywhere we go; Ennis did not disappoint.

Night-time is pub-time and in Ennis we visited Cruises Pub for our evening meal & entertainment. In order to get a good seat you have to time your arrival and meal just right.  So proud of ourselves, we did just that.  Tonight there were only two gals playing, one on a squeeze box and the other played the violin - they played well and gave us delightful Irish jigs for a good hour (while we sipped our Smithwicks).



Photo Album

Newpark House

Pretty posing Ruha

Our first night in Ireland was spent in a 267-year-old home which sits on 50 acres in Ennis.  Built in 1750 by the Hickman family, sold to the Mahon family in 1856 and finally to the Barron family in 1902 - who occupy it to this day.  When they bought the property, much was in ruin and there was very little furniture left.  Since the home is so large the family had to furnish the place with random 2nd hand items, all of which are now classic antiques.  Declan and his mother "Bernie" run the home as a B&B with their 5 horses, 6 chicken and 2 dogs.  We never did see the smaller dog, Charlie, but did hear him bark a few times.  But Ruha (Gaelic for red hair) the Irish setter enjoyed exploring with us. 
Declan has no children but says the property will be inherited by his nieces and nephews.  There are many out buildings throughout the property that had been used for farming, equipment, storage, etc. but are now falling to disrepair.  There were signs of wonderful vegetable garden too at one time but is no longer active.  The house has those wonder 3 foot thick walls, deep window seats, high ceilings and creaky uneven wooden floors. 



Our Bedroom

Breakfast was a fantastic treat.  The dining table was set for royalty which include fresh cut flowers.  Typical Irish breakfast served on matching Wedgewood china (beautiful) sideboard of porridge, fresh fruit, cold cereals and fresh orange juice. Bernie came in to take our orders, walked through into the kitchen where Declan cooked. Once complete she passed the warm filled plates through a little pass-through in the wall - - so cool. 

Declan and Bernie were warm, wonderful hosts, really make you feel like family. Hugs all around when we left.  We really enjoyed spending time chatting with them.

This was the perfect start to our Irish adventure.

PHOTO ALBUM

Boston Airport

We sat in the airport for 5 hours waiting for our flight to Shannon.  During that time we were able to watch all sort of folks coming and going. It always fascinates me what people wear when flying.

As we sat and enjoyed our coffee, tea and the constant parade of people, one gentleman,  Dr. Lee Hamilton sat with us and entertained us with his life story.  Seriously, he talked for a good hour. Turns out he has an "honorary" Doctorate from Polaroid.  He was also a photographer under contract with Barbizon Schools.  Today he was on his way to Africa with his sons.  Apparently he's traveled all over the world and had a few stories to tell from each port-of-call.  It was hard to tell what part of his stories were embellished, but they were entertaining and helped passed the time.

The Durty Nelly's Challenge

Sitting next door to the Bunratty Castle in Bunratty, Co. Clare there is a wonderful, old (early 1600's) colorful tavern called Durty Nelly's.










What stands out most about this place, besides it's exterior color, is in one of the front rooms they've posted hundreds of police & fire department patches from all around the world.

BUT they did not have any from Kentucky.







So hence, my challenge began,  I asked a couple of police if they had any extras, or if I could buy one - all "NO".   Well, well - I found one on EBay.  It will be personally delivered later this year and hopefully posted in a place of honor at Durty Nelly's.