Dublin Museum #1

So - there are numerous "National" museums throughout Ireland. Three of them are in Dublin: Archaeology, Natural History and the one we visited this past week, Decorative Arts and History. This location is cool, an old military barracks and right off the tram line.  There is also a large parking area which we gladly paid our 6 euros for all day parking (parking in Dublin is .... not fun).



The building itself is an extremely important structure, filled with lots and lots of history. Called the Collins Barracks (for Michael Collins) was built in 1702 and remained a military barracks for nearly 300 years. Many a court marshal, and imprisonment took place here too.  It was built to house 1500 men. The center courtyard, Clarke Square (named for Thomas Clarke, executed rebel leader during the 1916 Rising) is massive. I can just imagine troops marching, parading or just standing at attention there years ago. Walking around I got a sense of strength, history and honor.  It was renovated in 1985 to become a museum.

So now instead of making history, the building is keeping historical artifacts safe, and lots of it. Everything from clothes, furniture, jewelry, ceramics, silver, Asian art, coins, glass ware and a boat. All really impressive and showcased well throughout the building. Definitely worth a good couple of hours strolling around being impressed by the ages of some of the items displayed there.

Hurdy-Gurdy

Housed in it's own building is Asgard. A sailing yacht built in 1905 and apparently played a pivotal role in the 1914 Howth gun-running.  At the time this was a private yacht and during the daylight hours it delivered 1500 Mauser rifles to the Irish volunteers. Getting guns in the hands of civilians was essential to the attack on the GPO in the Easter Rising of 1916. This vessel has been meticulously restored from top to bottom, and now sits proudly for all to come and honor her.

After walking around the museum we walked a short distance into town to meet up with our next door neighbors from Kentucky (Brad & Laura) for a pint & lunch at the Brazen Head.


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Galway Atlantaquaria

We were excited to learn that Galway has an aquarium, and had to visit.  It’s not a real big place, but they have it laid out in such a cool way. It’s rather industrial, yet educational. Not real glamorous, but very functional. Most tanks are open on the top with walls of approx. 3” plexiglass.  Many are ground level since the place seems to cater to children, this makes everything quite visible for them. They also have numerous locations specifically geared for kids – stations for rubbings, skins of fish to feel that sort of thing.  They even have a birthday party room.  

They refurbish the oxygen in some tanks with big splash machines. The sound is deafening as the water swooshes into the tanks (they even have warning signs up).  

They even have Nimmo & Dory. 

After our morning break (tea/coffee) we strolled along the seapoint promenade. It was not a very sunny day but we were able to see the Aran Islands and would love to go back there one day.  We did spot Mutton Island, with lighthouse, and attempted to walk out there but the rains were coming in fast so we’ll have to revisit that another day as well. There was one memorial we came across that honored those ships that carried famine survivors to safety. 

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Carrick-on-Shannon

Curiosity brought us to the city of Carrick-on-Shannon.  Most of the rental boats we see coming and going through the lock hail from Carrick-on-Shannon.  Besides it’s a very cool name.  Translated it means: "weir of the marshy ridge".  It’s had its history of battles, but no castle to protect just the waterways and currently lots of boats.  There are a number of marinas that house boats of all shapes & sizes. Many condo’s now dot the shores along the River Shannon.  They have built a great walkway alongside the existing old bridge. (I sure wish Athlone would do this)

The one main attraction we found was the Costello Memorial Chapel.  Ireland’s smallest chapel.  I know the chapel was there first, (1879) but now it is wedged between two store fronts. You must know where to look or you’ll miss it.  This chapel built on the former sight of a Methodist chapel was commissioned in 1877 by a local merchant, Edward Costello.  It was to be a memorial to his wife Mary Josephine (she died in 1877). Mary is on the right and Edward on the left when you enter the tiny chapel.  Both coffins are made of wood and covered with a heavy transparent glass.  The Costello coat-of-arms is on the outside of the chapel. Their motto is ‘Ne te quaesiveris xtra‘ which means ‘Seek not thyself outside thyself’.

Just up the street is St. Mary’s built in 1879 as well. Over the years numerous bell towers, statues and annexes have been added on. Once inside you can see that everything has been updated, from the floor to the rafters. So, it does not speak to the past, but to the continued devotion and deep pockets of its parishioners.

Following our 'required' late-morning tea/coffee break we strolled through a park along the river banks.  The city has made significant effort to educate children on the wonders of nature with various bug hotels, bird sanctuaries and flower gardens.

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Cliffs of Moher

Sometimes when it promises to be a beautiful day you just need to take a walk along the Cliffs of Moher.  This is one of the most popular tourist pulls in all of Ireland.  As we hoped, most tourists have gone home so it was not as crowded as it was two years ago.  The day, the weather, did not disappoint.  Initially, we had intended to start off in Doolin but checking out the area we decided to do the Cliffs instead.  We only walked a mile or so.  I continue to be astounded at the number of STUPID people that temp fate by getting right to the edge just to take a photo.   As you walk up you can clearly see some of the stones jutting out there is nothing underneath, but still they climb all over them like it’s an amusement park vying for that perfect selfie. Thank the gods nothing bad happened this day.   

One of the most interesting things was the bathroom – Unisex.  I’ve never experienced one before and it’s a little bizarre standing line with men, women & children of both sexes.  Taking the next available stall knowing there’s a man in the stall next to you, or a man just walked out of the stall you enter, standing at the sinks washing & drying your hands standing next to a man doing the same thing.  Casually smiling at each other.  No one seemed to notice or care – at least no one said anything.  Seriously, it did seem quite normal – we all must pee at some point.

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Kilmacduagh

This was one of those great finds.  Even in the morning fog this place looks incredible. What caught my eye first was the round tower.  As we approached I began to notice the rest of the buildings; 7 in all.  We had no idea what this place was, but have since looked it up. 

This site was probably more important in medieval times than Clonmacnoise. However, these dwellings are more remote and not visited as much today.  Fortunately for us, there was no one else around this morning.  Not even the cows seemed show any interest in us.  

The name Kilmacduagh translates to “church of Duagh’s son”. Historians are not sure of the exact date, but believe this monastic settlement was originally established in the 7th century.  Founded by Irish Saint Colman Mac Duagh.  The new diocese was established and the Bishop’s seat held for the next few hundred years.  It fell victim to multiple attacks and was finally abandoned in the 13th century.


The numerous ruins are remarkable, but the round tower, sitting at a slight angle and around 100 feet tall, is in near perfect condition.  This is said to be the tallest of the roughly 50 remaining medieval towers in Ireland.  It dates back to the 10th century. 

Over the span of the settlements’ presence, the remaining structures were built. Six different churches and one house.  The graveyard is still used today. 

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Portumna

John

Portumna is what's called a "market town".  My interpretation of that is that it's on the waterways and it's small. Our friend, one of the lock keepers, John keeps his boat there.  It's about 40 minutes south of us and sits where the River Shannon enters Lough Derg.

The Portumna Castle sits on the banks of Lough Derg, surrounded by lush forest (now the Portumna Forest Park) and well laid out gardens. It is a remarkably beautiful house - on the outside.  It was built in the 1600's by Richard Burke, 4th Earl of Clanricarde. This was the family home for over 200 years, until, like so many was gutted by fired in 1826. Never rebuilt, it sat in ruin until the government took it over as a historical home conservation project. The approach to the home is inviting and almost intimating as you feel yourself step back in time. Such grandeur, remarkably manicured lawns. Unfortunately, it still sits gutted on the inside. They have on display pictures of the current restoration work, what the place would/could have looked like back in the day, but that's all. Very disappointing after such a great build up as you walk up that great staircase to the front door.

But, the absolute best part of this tour was the kitchen garden just outside the walls.  This is set up like any walled garden, not just pretty - it's extremely functional,  A garden that any cook would have been in 7th heaven to have. They have re-created what it could have been like years ago; fruits, spices, herbs, veggies. I suppose it was walled to protect the food growing there from the starving folks across town.

The city apparently had a very different class history back in the 1800's.  Just a few blocks away sits one of 163 Irish Workhouses.  Workhouses (or poorhouses) were for entire families.  Families that could not support themselves could come here.  Work for food, but they had to live there. They say, "the high walls were for keeping out, not keeping in". Then of-course the wealthy landlords could clear the land for others that could pay him.  This particular institution closed its doors in the 1920's.  We drove by, but I was not interested in a tour.

On the castle grounds also sits the ruins of the Portumna Priory.  Originally a single Cistercian monk chapel, built in the 13th century dedicated to Saints Peter and Paul sat and operated for 100 years.  Apparently, it fell out of use and the local lord at the time, Murcha O'Madden, gave it to the Dominican order for conversion into a friary. It was completed sometime around 1414. The last known use was as a protestant church around 1760.  I don't know how, why or when it was abandoned.  The priory still contains the tombs of the 4th Earl of Clanicarde and his wife.

Leaving town, we stopped off at the Ferry Inn for a "cuppa" and lunch.  We had a great chat with Barry, the owner and a lively and lengthy conversation with Jarrod.  We talked the entire time as we ate.  We talked about everything from politics (the jerk in the white house & why, again) as well as weather, sports, spirituality, families and children. What a great lunch!

Barry

Tom & Jarrod

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Galway Museum

We've begun to take little trips into the 'big' cites (Dublin and Galway) to better acquaint ourselves. Driving and parking can be very intimidating especially with hundreds of other cars whizzing by just because they know where they are going! Our GPS is not always spot on and most locations do not have a street address so some locations are difficult to find. They do like one-way streets too.  Once we do find them we must park the car. Always a treat, but seriously, I'm becoming good at parallel parking (on the wrong side of the street no less) and in the teeniest spots.  I’ll be sure to take a picture next time I accomplish this. 

Spanish Arch

One of these trips was to the Galway City Museum.  Relatively easy to find, but again the parking – oh-vey.  Right on the ‘long walk’ just down from the ‘Spanish arch’.  Granted this was on a Sunday, most business are closed so the working class was not there, only tourists.

The museum is three stories, rather small and sits next to the Spanish Arch.   It houses a mixed assortment of artifacts pertaining specifically to the history of Galway.  They have a cool 3D display (you can play with) of medieval Galway, various medieval artifacts and stones.  Front and center, literally, hanging from the ceiling is a traditional old time sailing vessel – Galway Hooker. The third floor is the very child friendly sea sciences complete with some handmade sea creatures and a play submarine.  They have a war zone display which honors those locals who made contributions to battles, along with some militia pieces and uniforms. 

One of two highlights for me was the Galway Civic Sword & Great Mace, which in themselves have quite a history. The sword was beautifully handmade in the 1600’s, the mace in the 1700’s.  They have been given, stolen, bought & sold (William Randolph Hearst 1935-51) carried by many a dignitary (J.F. Kennedy in 1963) in numerous parades and processions both civic and religious.  Finally, 2006 on display here in the city museum.

Second highlight is the statue of Pádraic Ó Conaire.  Born in Galway, 1882; a famous author, journalist and school teacher.  Some of his writings are on display, translated from the original Gaelic. The status was commissioned in 1935 and sat in the heart of Galway City at Eyre Square.  Unfortunately, it was vandalized (decapitated) in 1999 – repaired and moved to the Museum in 2004.

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