Portumna

John

Portumna is what's called a "market town".  My interpretation of that is that it's on the waterways and it's small. Our friend, one of the lock keepers, John keeps his boat there.  It's about 40 minutes south of us and sits where the River Shannon enters Lough Derg.

The Portumna Castle sits on the banks of Lough Derg, surrounded by lush forest (now the Portumna Forest Park) and well laid out gardens. It is a remarkably beautiful house - on the outside.  It was built in the 1600's by Richard Burke, 4th Earl of Clanricarde. This was the family home for over 200 years, until, like so many was gutted by fired in 1826. Never rebuilt, it sat in ruin until the government took it over as a historical home conservation project. The approach to the home is inviting and almost intimating as you feel yourself step back in time. Such grandeur, remarkably manicured lawns. Unfortunately, it still sits gutted on the inside. They have on display pictures of the current restoration work, what the place would/could have looked like back in the day, but that's all. Very disappointing after such a great build up as you walk up that great staircase to the front door.

But, the absolute best part of this tour was the kitchen garden just outside the walls.  This is set up like any walled garden, not just pretty - it's extremely functional,  A garden that any cook would have been in 7th heaven to have. They have re-created what it could have been like years ago; fruits, spices, herbs, veggies. I suppose it was walled to protect the food growing there from the starving folks across town.

The city apparently had a very different class history back in the 1800's.  Just a few blocks away sits one of 163 Irish Workhouses.  Workhouses (or poorhouses) were for entire families.  Families that could not support themselves could come here.  Work for food, but they had to live there. They say, "the high walls were for keeping out, not keeping in". Then of-course the wealthy landlords could clear the land for others that could pay him.  This particular institution closed its doors in the 1920's.  We drove by, but I was not interested in a tour.

On the castle grounds also sits the ruins of the Portumna Priory.  Originally a single Cistercian monk chapel, built in the 13th century dedicated to Saints Peter and Paul sat and operated for 100 years.  Apparently, it fell out of use and the local lord at the time, Murcha O'Madden, gave it to the Dominican order for conversion into a friary. It was completed sometime around 1414. The last known use was as a protestant church around 1760.  I don't know how, why or when it was abandoned.  The priory still contains the tombs of the 4th Earl of Clanicarde and his wife.

Leaving town, we stopped off at the Ferry Inn for a "cuppa" and lunch.  We had a great chat with Barry, the owner and a lively and lengthy conversation with Jarrod.  We talked the entire time as we ate.  We talked about everything from politics (the jerk in the white house & why, again) as well as weather, sports, spirituality, families and children. What a great lunch!

Barry

Tom & Jarrod

PHOTO ALBUM