Ring of Kerry

There are three major peninsulas on the south/west coast of Ireland; Dingle, Kerry, and Beara. Two years ago, we had debated about driving the ‘Ring of Kerry’.  It is after all one of the top 10 destinations for tourists visiting Ireland, and usually by the bus load.  In fact, when you drive the ring it’s suggested you drive counter clockwise because that’s the direction the buses drive. That way you avoid the challenge of passing them on the narrow roads.  This in self was enough for us to pass on the drive two years ago.  Instead we took a left at the Ladies View and drove around Beara Peninsula instead. All the way to the tip ending at the Dursey Island cable car. Loved it!!

This time, it’s Kerry!  We started out early hoping to avoid the lines of tour busses. It was cloudy most of the morning, but there was a promise of clear skies.   We never did get to see the top of Carrauntoohil, Irelands highest mountain at 3,400’.  The drive around the base of the mountain towards the coast and out through the valley is stunning, the vistas are breathtaking and if the weather is just right, your photo’s can be remarkable.  However, I have promised myself not to take landscape photo’s when the weather is crappy – you will never get the full impact of what the eye sees. 

We briefly ventured off the Ring of Kerry route and took the Wild Atlantic Way/Skellig Ring Route (buses don’t go this way 😊).  Our first stop was Valentia Island.  You can get on the island either by ferry or bridge. This is a very small island, about 7 miles long and the population in under 1,000 (during the season – I assume they mean spring/summer) Our ferry ride over was very short, but still fun. Cool being out on the water again, even though it was in a car (weird sensation). We stopped in Knightstown and watched what we think was a summer camp of sorts.  A few dozen kids all in wet-suits playing in the protected harbor area.  Including one water-fun-loving dog.  Our drive through the rest of the island was short and very scenic.  I was surprised by the number of wild flowers still in bloom everywhere.  We found Bray Head and our first view of the Skellig Islands.  

Crossing over the bridge back to the mainland – we took a right instead of going straight and were rewarded with the Kerry Cliffs.   This site is on private property and they charged 4 euro per person, but let me tell you – it far surpasses the Cliffs of Moher in character, drama, beauty and hordes of people (none).   It’s a more strenuous hike than Moher (left or right) to the top of the cliffs which are anywhere from 600-900 feet above sea level.  But once there, the panoramas are incredible. 

We got back on the Ring of Kerry route and slowly drove towards Waterville where we found the Charlie Chaplin statue. (yes, it was on my list) As we sat and enjoyed lunch, we watched tour buses drive slowly past the statue so everyone inside could snap their pictures.  Only a small handful of buses actually stopped in Waterville.   Our last stop was the city of Sneem, a very colorful and scenic town. More buses stopped here unfortunately, making the streets and sidewalks crowded.  The one cool attraction of this town is the rock formation under the city bridge.  The rocks are vertical, making the water flow very dramatic.

From here the buses turn left and drive though the valley, meeting back up with the official road through Kenmare at Molly’s Gap.  Back down to the city of Killarney is a small winding road snaking through the Killarney National Forest.  The forest is beautiful, with striking views of the valley and the lakes below.  At the base of the forest drive they offer jaunty cart rides.  Given the time, this would be the best way to see the forest.  Maybe next time, when we come back to do Dingle Peninsula. 

PHOTO ALBUM