Today's walk

Today was a grocery store kinda day, easy day, and when the sun came out this afternoon we decided to take a walk.  Unfortunately, one of the nature trails we like to stroll down has been closed due to the potential flooding from the river. 

We continued to the edge of town and found a small 'country' road to wonder down. We found lots of berries and many of the farming fields along the river already flooded.  We even ran across our neighbors walking their dogs.

The water continues to rise in front of our  complex as well.

I took some shots of the city  roads we walk along so you can see more of Athlone, see more in the album.



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Limerick

We took the opportunity to revisit Limerick last week.  We had stayed there two years ago, but never had the time to really look around the city.  Limerick was one of the towns we had considered moving to before we settled on Athlone.  But it’s further south in the country, the utilities run a bit higher, and it’s the third largest city in Ireland.

Canal

At a point where the Shannon River bends around the city, a canal was cut to connect the two side of the river, thus making an island.  This is Kings Island.  This is where King John’s Castle was built in the 13th century, as well as St. Mary’s Cathedral, dating back to the 12th century.  Back in the early 12th century the Norman’s established Limerick as a Royal City and it became the region for the Royal Mint under King John, Lord of Ireland. (gag)

Over the years, walls were built to incorporate substantial portions of the city as well as their own safe harbor.   As with so many castles in Ireland it had its share of battles, tunnels built and walls crumbled.  Even into the 20th century people still lived within the walls of the castle, but were removed when the city claimed it was a National Monument. There is not much left of the original structures, just a few towers, tunnels and walls.  It’s impressive from the outside, but not so much the inside.

 We visited the Hunt Museum on our walk-about the city.   The museum occupies in the Custom House; built in 1769 as the residence of the tax collector and later the offices of customs officials.  It became the Hunt Museum in 1993.  The museum houses the personal collection of John and Gertrude Hunt.  Each of the of the approximately 2000 pieces were hand selected and from all over the world.  Some pieces date back to the stone age while there were also pieces displayed from local high school students.   The Hunts donated this collection to the people of Ireland with express wishes that the collection remain in Limerick.

 The museum also had a separate exhibit going on – “Contrasting Visions of Ireland”, the art works of Jack B. Yeats and Paul Henry.  Both acclaimed Irish artists and friends who died within months of each other in the late 1950’s.

It's a lovely city around the water, but I thought the city was more inviting and colorful back in July when we visited two years ago, but as we are discovering once the tourist season is over things convert back to their ‘real’ self.


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Hot Air Balloons

One of my bucket list items is witnessing a Hot Air Balloon Festival. I found one.  Not the one I envisioned in Albuquerque, New Mexico, but in Loughrea Ireland – and a million less people I might add.  The directions were clear, the launch was to take place in the fields behind the Loughrea Hotel. We were about 30 minutes from launch time and as we approached the hotel we noticed cars were beginning to park, line the highway, so I pulled over and parked too.  Cars continued to pull up and park everywhere they could.  So, we started walking the highway with everyone else.  Turns out we were a good ½ mile from the hotel, down the next street and onto the field.  We knew we were in the right place since there was a large hand painted sign that read ‘spectators’ (my bad, I forgot to get a picture).  Tom and I stood in this field for a good 30 minutes (wishing we’d brought our folding chairs). Everyone, and their children, who were having a grand time of it, running, playing chase, falling, getting really dirty, or just picking flowers.

Dogs barking at them and other dogs.  But no Hot Air Balloons.  Seems everyone else was wondering the same things, a few folks started to leave and others re-positioned themselves for a better view (?) of what we were not sure.  We struck up a conversation with some folks standing along the fence and asked them too – well, what’s up?  They’d never been before either and were wondering where is the communication, no one there to tell anyone what’s going on. 

After an hour we decided to move back up to the opening at the fence and considered leaving, avoiding the rush of crowd (California mentality) when the first truck arrived, then another, then another. So, eventually, a total of 15 in all.  Far below, between two fences, they began to unload their equipment and spread out the flat balloons across the ground.  Fire plumes were being tested and baskets constructed.   It was exciting to watch as the balloons slowly came to life as they begin to fill and rise.  Then one by one they lifted off.  We watched for the next hour as each balloon took flight.  It was really exciting and well worth the wait to see them all in the sky, floating wherever the winds took them.

One balloon did not have a basket at all, but a single man just sitting there just floating along.  I could only think how very cold he was going to get. 

Now we really want to witness the Hot Air Balloon Albuquerque.













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Today, September 22nd

We are not always driving around Ireland playing tourist.  We probably only go out twice a week on adventures. (always watching the weather)  We stick close to home all the other days.  There is always some domestics to do whether it be grocery shopping – which means hitting 3 different stores (usually we walk).  Doing laundry – we wash our own now in our itty-bitty washing machine, but we have to plan on taking at least 3 days for it to dry on the drying rack (with or with sunshine).

We also make a point to face-to-face chat with family once a week and since some family are on the west coast our timing has to be planned.  Today I was able to chat with my brother & his wife in Washington.  Nancy commented on a statement I had made some time ago about finding comfort in familiarity.  I thought about this today and as I had suspected, we are finding more and more comfort the longer we live here.   Sure, there is still a lot of mysteries and challenges we face on a daily basis, but we can, and do, revert to what we are comfortable with.  Even our new experiences are becoming familiar. I’m not sure our lives will ever be ‘normal’ living here, but we are more used to our surroundings and lifestyle.  The challenge of living here has proven to me that life is change; with change comes growth.  We are doing a pretty damn good job at making THIS life – familiar.

Okay enough philosophical stuff…..

Today’s activity report – we returned to Coosan Point to place our ‘love lock’ on the fence.  Tom and I are now, forever, or until they cut it off, permanently locked together.  (With hundreds of other lovers).  We tossed our keys into the lake, never to be found again.

At the crack of dawn the Military began to set up tents in the park across the Shannon.  Of course, we had to investigate.  Turns out it was an official ceremony for a 6-month deployment.  The 56th Infantry group (156 personnel) going to the UN Disengagement Observation Force in Golan Heights, Israel.   Following all the words and praises from the Defense Minister they marched through downtown and returned to their barracks for a reception with friends and families.

 David Maher

Niall de Buitlear

Tonight, we went to the Laun Gallery across the street from the Athlone Castle.  This is a very small little gallery and it would appear they like to use local artists.  The theme was a reflection of the jealousy wall at Belvedere House. A curator was our guide to help us with the intricate interpretation of the work we were looking at.  Which was a good thing, because otherwise it could have been – okay, I don’t get it. (we’ve had plenty of those moments)








On our walk home, stopped and had a lovely chat with John the lock master and his wife Sharon, who is visiting from Wales.


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Newgrange & Knowth

When we travelled to Ireland 2 years ago we passed through the historical River Boyne Valley.  Found the ruin of Mellifont Abbey (Irelands’ first Cistercian abbey), our first “Round Tower”, which was Donaghmore (dates back to 10th century thought to have been founded by St Patrick) and we had hoped to end our day at Newgrange.  We came up the back way and found the mound known as Newgrange, but were told visitors had to go through the visitor center for entry and we had just missed the last tour of the day 😞 so we saw the outside but were not allowed on the grounds.

So today, we passed by the Mellifont Abbey and the Round Tower of Donaghmore and entered the gates of the Visitors Center of Bru na boinne aka Newgrange.  The center is very nicely done and very well controlled.  We stood in line and were approached by a man with a ‘show & tell’ laminated page – ‘well then what is it you’re wanting to see?”  One side showed stuff and pictures about Newgrange, the other Knowth.  Duh - we bought the tour for both – this time we have all day!  He puts two little round stickers on us, one say’s 12:15 Knowth, the other 2:15 Newgrange.  He say’s “at 12-o’clock just make your way across the bridge, just there, (points) to the bus”. 








So we made our way to the bus, across the bridge taking us over the River Boyne and small section of the path over an active, and fragrant, cow pasture.








Each site is about 3-4 miles from the visitor center so you MUST take a bus and enter the site with the appropriate sticker.  First stop is Knowth.  Our guide explained the artifacts they’ve found, the people that lived here, all the different activities that have taken place on this land over the past 5000 years. This is real stone-age stuff! They can only speculate on the purpose of this mound and the surrounding 17, either burial or ritual sites.  Same goes for Newgrange.

River Boyne

We were able to walk up to the top of Knowth (about 40 feet).  We'd chosen a good day for a visit; the views were remarkable in all directions.  Can't walk on the top of Newgrange.

What I found I appreciated the most were the kurbstones with carvings that are very rudimentary. These are the huge, carved stones that surround the large mound. The most were found at Knowth – 114 in all.  These stones were the sides, or outside walls, of the mound and all had some sort of carvings on them.
















During excavation, a ring of concrete was poured to support the enormous weight of earth.  The kurbstones were then replaced under the concrete ring. 

concrete ring of support

Small mounds no ring of support

At each mound, a massive carved head stone was placed over the entrance, these have since been moved to the ground for safety.   The door at Newgrange actually had an immense flat stone used as a door, it now securely rests to the side of the door.

overhead stone with door stone behind

It was discovered in 1967 that the winter solstice sunrise shines directly through the roofbox (small opening over the door) and into the chamber.  Not sure what significance this holds, but again speculation says it was built in such a way on purpose to honor the returning sun.  There is a lottery each year for 20 lucky folks to be present at the sun rise to watch the light move across the floor and rest at the back of the chamber.  The only chamber available to the public for entry, which is only approx. 1/3 into the mound.   Yes, we both entered our names in the lottery.

To the side of Newgrange is a very unusual little building, dating back to 1880’s.  They called it a folly since its purpose is unknown today.  However, they do know the stones used to construct this ‘folly’ were from the monument itself.

We returned to the visitor center after our wonderful little bus rides, ate a nice dinner and headed home, back to Athlone.

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Trim Castle

Trim Castle is the largest Anglo-Norman castle in Ireland. Built by Hugh de Lacy (and son Walter).  Construction started in 1172 and took over 30 years to be completed. It was protected by a ditch, curtain wall and moat.  It was in a very strategic location, sitting on raised ground overlooking the very navigable River Boyne.  It’s seen its share of battles also including the occupation by one of Cromwell’s armies back in 1649.  It’s had too many owners to mention.  In 1993 the last owner, Lord Dunsany sold the land and buildings to the state, retaining only river access and fishing rights.

It's one of those places most tour companies visit due to its proximity to Dublin. It’s also one of many locations used in filming Braveheart.

We have seen a slight drop in the tourism trade, which for us is a good thing (less crowds).  Probably not so much for Ireland.  It amuses me that we now consider ourselves locals and not tourists.  

I had investigated Trim Castle on line so had an idea what to expect, we had already chosen NOT to buy the tickets for the tour of the Keep. Even though it's nicely intact on the outside, it's very much like what we found at Portumna Castle – inside just a shell of a building.  So not much to see.  I usually find the grounds much more interesting anyway, especially when they are rustic in nature.  Trim Castle is the kind of site where the city has taken control of the ruins, charging a fee for entry, charging a fee for a tour and chaining off areas that might pose the slightest bit of danger. You’ve got specific gravel paths to walk on, manicured lawns and they were even plucking the moss off the outside of the castle walls. To me this was removing character and charm, to them probably required upkeep of the ruins.

We found a great little path on the outside of the walls walked around the River Boyne and did some exploring.   Across the river on top of the hill sits the ruins (one wall) of the Yellow Steeple of St. Mary’s Abby.  As we strolled over the foot path, glancing downriver we could see the oldest “in-use” bridge in Ireland, built in the late 1300’s.  I was not expecting to see this here, so it was a great find.

So, are you tired of castles yet?  NAW -Me neither, just a few more dozen (or so) to go. 

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Athlone Castle

Well now, yes, we do have our own castle in Athlone. (what's left of it) Albeit it's not a large one (now) does not house lots of artifacts or have great areas to roam around, but we've got one! It's been transformed into the city's tourist center.  Much has been done inside to tell the history of the castle and its peoples over the years. They even have stations with period clothing for the kids to get dressed up and pretend.

It dates to the 11th century and was originally built with wood. It was rebuilt around 1210 in stone for King John (seems lots of castles were built in the name of King John). Athlone for years was considered a bustling river town - lots of commerce moving up & down the river - connecting with Dublin, etc. so this was a very important strategic location. Whoever controlled the castle controlled the bridge crossing the Shannon.  The castle and bridge were lost to William of Orange in 1690.  He held the east bank (Castle on the west bank) and for 10 days bombarded the castle with cannon balls and fire bombs. The outer walls are pretty much what remains today,and they are impressively thick. From the exterior top walkways you can see far up and down of the river so you can imagine how significantly strategic it would have been.

Funny thing, the bridge – it’s still the only bridge in Athlone, for both cars & pedestrians.

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Coosan Point

At the north end of the town, on the shores of Lough Ree is a great little spot. Coosan Point is a great place to launch your fishing boat, play in the playground, stop for a bite of lunch, or stroll along a walking path. They have gone to great lengths to make the path easy, educational and enjoyable. There are a number of  'stations' set up at you wind your way around.





There is a large chalk board and benches, further down and along the shore line is an easel.  They even have a lover's lock area, which we intend to return to soon - with a lock!

There is also a free book library, places to sit, read and enjoy the solitude.  It's also a bird and wildlife sanctuary.  It's a delightful little place to zen-out, take a few minutes  - stop and breath.

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Rock of Dunamase

oops

Driving up to the location, you can see it sitting high upon the hill.  But don’t take your eyes of the road since there could likely be another car approaching – and there was. So, I backed up & took a picture.

This is one of the best strategic locations I’ve seen for a defensive fortress.  Sitting high on a hill, overlooking the surrounding countryside sits the remains of Dunamase castle.  Also called the Rock of Dunamase. The site was originally built upon in the 9th century as a Christian settlement. Then in 842, it was pillaged and the abbot killed by Vikings.  It sat unattended for nearly 200 years.  The Normans came along and began to rebuild it in the

Barbican Gate

12th century. 

Great Hall

Main Gate

The castle was fortified with the addition of a Great Hall; the existing gate tower strengthened and more walls added. When you look closely at the various rocks and stones, and the different building methods you can almost see the different years emerging.  Obviously, due to its location it became a very important stronghold and negotiating resource for anyone that held it over the next few hundred years. Being fought over for years it fell into a slow decline.  However, this was another great castle that fell and finally destroyed during the Cromwellian invasion in 1650.  With what is currently left of the grounds and the drawings of its layout, you can see how magnificent it had been.  

Borrowed from the internet

Slieve Bloom Mountain range

We were blessed with a lovely morning (only a 50% chance of rain) so I was able to take some good shots of the valley below and the Slieve Bloom Mountain range off in the distance.  The ruins are now inhabited by numerous birds and I believe a few accidental spirits still hang out as well.   It’s always wise to seek permission before entering old structures.  I did and felt quite welcomed.  This is one of my favorite sites. 

Just below the mountain sits the The Rock Holy Trinity Church, still in use today.  I have not been able to find out how old it is, and we could not enter due to the doors being locked.  There are a number of grave stones there dating back to the 1800's. 

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