Thursday, July 20, 2017

Clonmacnoise Monastic City

Two different locals asked us if we’d been to Clonmacnoise, “it’s just a wee bit down the road, aye ya need to go there”, “have you been to Clonmacnoise yet?” So today we took advantage of the morning sunshine and plotted our trip.  Actually, it is just a wee bit down the road, only 30 minutes south.  However, it’s off one of those itty-bitty rural roads, which has no right calling itself a road – one lane, just enough room for one car, let alone two. In fact, the garman said “road” as we turned onto it (that should be my first clue of what to expect). I often wonder if I’m really driving down someone’s driveway instead.

We thought, okay, this is going be a great local secret, not easy to get to – out here in the middle of nowhere.  Not.  We arrived before the place was ‘open for business’.  So, we wondered through the cow pasture (avoiding the pies) and took pictures of the castle ruins situated on a mound alongside the River Shannon. The remains are from a castle built in 1216, but destroyed in the 14th century. Not part of the Clonmacnoise monastic city.

By the time we got back from our stroll there was one other car in the parking lot. Thirty other spots available, but they are parked right next to us.  Irish humor?

The doors did not open until 9am so we had to wait for the staff to arrive (about 10 of them).  We thought a lot of employees for such an obscure location. HA!  We paid our 6 Euros, and watched a short history film about this 1400-year-old location which was first settled in 544 by St. Ciarán.   The three largest & oldest high crosses (10th, 11th & 12th centuries) have been brought indoors for safe keeping.  This place is OLD and has an enormous amount of
St. Ciaran (open air chapel)
history associated with it. It was one of Ireland's greatest sites for religion and learning back in the day. But, throughout the centuries, and a lot due to its strategic location, it had been attacked and ravaged by just about every side imaginable – locals, Normans and English.  Still today there are pilgrimages a couple times a year, which are attended by hundreds, honoring various Saints, including the founder St. Ciarán (buried there). Interesting how some folks place coins around the tomb (chapel). Not sure what their purpose is.  Pope John even attended a pilgrimage one year.

I would have thought today was another pilgrimage due to the number of people that kept arriving –literally by the bus load.  After we finished our (my) picture taking madness, tea and coffee and quiche in the café, there were NINE buses in the parking lot.   We did pass one more on the ‘road’ out – pulled over in the bushes and waited for him to pass.
Arial - not mine, borrowed from the Internet so you can get an idea of the size & location

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