Portumna

John

Portumna is what's called a "market town".  My interpretation of that is that it's on the waterways and it's small. Our friend, one of the lock keepers, John keeps his boat there.  It's about 40 minutes south of us and sits where the River Shannon enters Lough Derg.

The Portumna Castle sits on the banks of Lough Derg, surrounded by lush forest (now the Portumna Forest Park) and well laid out gardens. It is a remarkably beautiful house - on the outside.  It was built in the 1600's by Richard Burke, 4th Earl of Clanricarde. This was the family home for over 200 years, until, like so many was gutted by fired in 1826. Never rebuilt, it sat in ruin until the government took it over as a historical home conservation project. The approach to the home is inviting and almost intimating as you feel yourself step back in time. Such grandeur, remarkably manicured lawns. Unfortunately, it still sits gutted on the inside. They have on display pictures of the current restoration work, what the place would/could have looked like back in the day, but that's all. Very disappointing after such a great build up as you walk up that great staircase to the front door.

But, the absolute best part of this tour was the kitchen garden just outside the walls.  This is set up like any walled garden, not just pretty - it's extremely functional,  A garden that any cook would have been in 7th heaven to have. They have re-created what it could have been like years ago; fruits, spices, herbs, veggies. I suppose it was walled to protect the food growing there from the starving folks across town.

The city apparently had a very different class history back in the 1800's.  Just a few blocks away sits one of 163 Irish Workhouses.  Workhouses (or poorhouses) were for entire families.  Families that could not support themselves could come here.  Work for food, but they had to live there. They say, "the high walls were for keeping out, not keeping in". Then of-course the wealthy landlords could clear the land for others that could pay him.  This particular institution closed its doors in the 1920's.  We drove by, but I was not interested in a tour.

On the castle grounds also sits the ruins of the Portumna Priory.  Originally a single Cistercian monk chapel, built in the 13th century dedicated to Saints Peter and Paul sat and operated for 100 years.  Apparently, it fell out of use and the local lord at the time, Murcha O'Madden, gave it to the Dominican order for conversion into a friary. It was completed sometime around 1414. The last known use was as a protestant church around 1760.  I don't know how, why or when it was abandoned.  The priory still contains the tombs of the 4th Earl of Clanicarde and his wife.

Leaving town, we stopped off at the Ferry Inn for a "cuppa" and lunch.  We had a great chat with Barry, the owner and a lively and lengthy conversation with Jarrod.  We talked the entire time as we ate.  We talked about everything from politics (the jerk in the white house & why, again) as well as weather, sports, spirituality, families and children. What a great lunch!

Barry

Tom & Jarrod

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Galway Museum

We've begun to take little trips into the 'big' cites (Dublin and Galway) to better acquaint ourselves. Driving and parking can be very intimidating especially with hundreds of other cars whizzing by just because they know where they are going! Our GPS is not always spot on and most locations do not have a street address so some locations are difficult to find. They do like one-way streets too.  Once we do find them we must park the car. Always a treat, but seriously, I'm becoming good at parallel parking (on the wrong side of the street no less) and in the teeniest spots.  I’ll be sure to take a picture next time I accomplish this. 

Spanish Arch

One of these trips was to the Galway City Museum.  Relatively easy to find, but again the parking – oh-vey.  Right on the ‘long walk’ just down from the ‘Spanish arch’.  Granted this was on a Sunday, most business are closed so the working class was not there, only tourists.

The museum is three stories, rather small and sits next to the Spanish Arch.   It houses a mixed assortment of artifacts pertaining specifically to the history of Galway.  They have a cool 3D display (you can play with) of medieval Galway, various medieval artifacts and stones.  Front and center, literally, hanging from the ceiling is a traditional old time sailing vessel – Galway Hooker. The third floor is the very child friendly sea sciences complete with some handmade sea creatures and a play submarine.  They have a war zone display which honors those locals who made contributions to battles, along with some militia pieces and uniforms. 

One of two highlights for me was the Galway Civic Sword & Great Mace, which in themselves have quite a history. The sword was beautifully handmade in the 1600’s, the mace in the 1700’s.  They have been given, stolen, bought & sold (William Randolph Hearst 1935-51) carried by many a dignitary (J.F. Kennedy in 1963) in numerous parades and processions both civic and religious.  Finally, 2006 on display here in the city museum.

Second highlight is the statue of Pádraic Ó Conaire.  Born in Galway, 1882; a famous author, journalist and school teacher.  Some of his writings are on display, translated from the original Gaelic. The status was commissioned in 1935 and sat in the heart of Galway City at Eyre Square.  Unfortunately, it was vandalized (decapitated) in 1999 – repaired and moved to the Museum in 2004.

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The Hill of Uisneach

They say history began when Christians began to record it.  Hmmm, Oh, I don’t think so.  I believe myths & legends are history passed down by the elders and story tellers for years.  I’m talking way, way back. As we hiked, I learned the grand-daughter of Noah settled Ireland, and that Uisneach is the mythological and sacred center of Ireland.  (Read about more Uisneach history here )

Marty

Our guide Marty is a bounty of legend & myth stories – he knows his stuff, he knows this mountain – inside and out. An impressive mountain that sits about 600 feet above sea level that bulges with history, greatness and wonderful rolling hills (and cows). We walk up a steep rocky path to the first location of our tour, The Royal Palace.  I saw impressive rolling hills and magnificent vistas all around.  On closer look, I begin to see the buried stones that outlined the once sacred structures. Ruins that hold nothing more than memories of High Kings that once held court here.  But before that time, this land was the land of Eriu (Earth Goddess) and Lugh (Celtic Sun God).  This is also said to be their burial sites.

As we continued on our walk across open fields, we come to Lough Lugh.  Here Marty tells of the story of Lugh, the Celtic Sun God.  It seemed to be an endless story, told with great animation and enthusiasm.

Continuing upward we come to the top of the mountain.  From here Ireland stretches out in all directions. I imagine on a clear day
we might actually see the ocean. Fantastic views.  Archaeologists say an ancient burial mound is situated here around a stone cairn, or tomb, knows as “St. Patrick's Bed”.  So much history, so many myths, so many legends to talk about when you talk of Uisneach.

Today, as it was hundreds of years ago, a number of celebrations take place here.  Bealtaine is the largest, with dancing, games and fire. The first great fire to be lit in Ireland, on this hill, to signal the end of the dark times. (I’ll put it on the calendar for next year).  Slightly down the east side of this hill preciously sits the ‘naval of Ireland’.  Marty says this is the naval of Eriu, the very center of the earth goddess herself.  These boulders are massive, proud, majestic and very very old.

Naval of Eriu

As we’re concluding our 2-hour walk, Marty is speaking about the spiritual power this mountain holds, the great vibes he feels. I tried to calm myself and feel the vibes but was unable to tune into any sensations.

This was a great walk, very informative and enlightening.





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Black Castle

Earlier this month, on our back way up the east coast, we popped over to Black Castle and the city of Wicklow; which is just south of Dublin.  This prominent piece of land was granted to the Earl Strongbow by the Normans in 1169.  He in turn granted it over to Baron Fitzgerald on the condition that he build a castle for protection (offense and defense).  Turns out the local folks did not take kindly to this.  The clans O’Byrne and O’Toole constantly attacked the castle till they succeeded in destroying the majority of it in 1301.  What little is left still sits high on a grassy craggy cliff with splendid views from all sides.  

Adjacent to the ruins is a city park, suitable for running dogs, yoga classes or just spending a few quiet moments pondering the ways of the world.  We walked the break wall out to the light house.  Admired the boat artworks along the wall.

Watched a few fishermen and returned to see a group of students getting ready to set out on their sailing adventures in the harbor.  This city is definitely on my list of places to return to.  I understand at the south end of town sits the Wicklow Head Lighthouse.  We missed it this time, but not the next time!

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Belvedere House and Gardens

Now that I’m here I enthusiastically continue to seek out events, walks and the unusual on a weekly basis – and plan for them.  On my list was the Belvedere House and Gardens.  Fortunately for us, it’s only a 45-minute drive away, so we were able to plan our trip on a good weather day (meaning mostly dry).

As it turns out, this is one of my favorite locations (so far).  The house and gardens are on the banks of Lough Ennell. The house, and terraces, are nicely positioned for full enjoyment of lake views. The house is impressive from a distance, but actually rather small once you get closer. I think this house could have been wonderful in its time.  The house yes, but not so much the history and original owner. I believe his 2nd wife still haunts the house.  It’s a sorted, sad and yet interesting tale.  All original furnishings were sold off years ago.

Mary Molesworth

Long story short - The house was built in 1740 as a hunting lodge by Robert Rochfort, 1st Earl of Belvedere.  Turns out he was not a nice man and was nicknamed ‘the wicked earl’.  After hearing the history, I believe he was rather a ludicrous little prick who spent his life and wealth trying to attain more distinction. After his 1st wife died of smallpox (1731) he married Mary Molesworth at the age of 16. She was young & popular and did not care for Robert, but turns out her father did not believe she was really his daughter and was glad to be rid of her, married her off to Robert. Poor Mary. Initially they lived at Gaulstown House with their 4 children, but Robert spent little time there, tired of family life and eventually became estranged after 8 years of marriage. He accused Mary of adultery and virtually imprisoned her in their home for 31 years without her children (they were allowed to visit occasionally). The story of Mary was one of the great Irish social scandals of the 18th century. After wicked earl died, Mary’s children freed her.  For more details of the story read HERE .

Jealous Wall

In addition to the house and landscaped grounds there are three ‘follies’ on the property. The Jealous Wall, the Gothic Arch and Octagonal Gazebo. (I’d never heard of a folly until I came here).  Robert had more money than he knew what to do with and his jealousy & ego was monumental.  He built the wall in such a location to block the view of his house from his brother who lived across the way.  The Jealous Wall is boasted to be the largest and most spectacular folly in Ireland.  The Arch is at the back of the property and frames the house.  The gazebo was never finished inside, served no purpose -but boasted of fine lake views – you see nothing but big trees now.  So three large, impressive structures that still do little to nothing but impress tourists today.

The Walled Garden is small and nicely cared for by many volunteering horticulture students. 

Walking along a path we came upon a rustic old tree house with a very small rope swing, over a very small creek.  Could not resist, and we each took a turn crossing the raging river.

There is a fairy garden as well.  At the time, it was filled with children’s laughter. I believe the Irish are certain of the little folk and do everything they can to make life good for them, otherwise they may become objects to their pranks.  Such is the feel of fairy gardens here.

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Roscommon

It would appear I forgot to post this from last months adventures, but no time like the present!

Roscommon is about a 45 minute drive north of us.  Easy drive. The town is about the same size as Athlone.

The Roscommon castle ruins are what's left of what would have been a stunning 13th century Norman castle.  They sit quietly on a small hill at the back of a 14 acre park, which in itself is pretty  impressive.  The park includes a crannog (man-made island for wildlife in the middle of a pond) wildflower meadow, bird walks, adult exercise area and a playground.

Approaching the castle you can't help but be intimated by the size of this place. Most of the outer wall of the castle still stands and is currently home to a number of grazing cows (and one donkey).

It was built on lands seized from an Augustinian Priory in 1269 by Robert de Ufford.  Like so many castles in Ireland, over the years, it shuffled back and forth between the English and Irish. At one point, back in Irish hands, it was partially blown up by Cromwell's forces in 1652, along with all the castle defenses.  Not sure why, but it finally burned down in 1690.   You can see where some newer patches have been made to the walls, but for the most part it's foundations are all original.

What I particularly enjoy about this site is there are little to no other tourists.  Just a few locals enjoying the park, strolling their children or walking their dogs (mostly always off-leash).  You also get to walk around the inside and experience the sense of size at the massive walls that would have risen 4 stories high.

After walking through the park and back to town we found the Sacred Heart Church. I enjoy going to churches, especially when no one else is in side and I can take pictures.  It's huge and sparkles with all the spectacle one would expect from a church this size.  One thing I did notice was they still displayed a picture of Pope Paul. (what message does this send?)

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Ring of Kerry

There are three major peninsulas on the south/west coast of Ireland; Dingle, Kerry, and Beara. Two years ago, we had debated about driving the ‘Ring of Kerry’.  It is after all one of the top 10 destinations for tourists visiting Ireland, and usually by the bus load.  In fact, when you drive the ring it’s suggested you drive counter clockwise because that’s the direction the buses drive. That way you avoid the challenge of passing them on the narrow roads.  This in self was enough for us to pass on the drive two years ago.  Instead we took a left at the Ladies View and drove around Beara Peninsula instead. All the way to the tip ending at the Dursey Island cable car. Loved it!!

This time, it’s Kerry!  We started out early hoping to avoid the lines of tour busses. It was cloudy most of the morning, but there was a promise of clear skies.   We never did get to see the top of Carrauntoohil, Irelands highest mountain at 3,400’.  The drive around the base of the mountain towards the coast and out through the valley is stunning, the vistas are breathtaking and if the weather is just right, your photo’s can be remarkable.  However, I have promised myself not to take landscape photo’s when the weather is crappy – you will never get the full impact of what the eye sees. 

We briefly ventured off the Ring of Kerry route and took the Wild Atlantic Way/Skellig Ring Route (buses don’t go this way 😊).  Our first stop was Valentia Island.  You can get on the island either by ferry or bridge. This is a very small island, about 7 miles long and the population in under 1,000 (during the season – I assume they mean spring/summer) Our ferry ride over was very short, but still fun. Cool being out on the water again, even though it was in a car (weird sensation). We stopped in Knightstown and watched what we think was a summer camp of sorts.  A few dozen kids all in wet-suits playing in the protected harbor area.  Including one water-fun-loving dog.  Our drive through the rest of the island was short and very scenic.  I was surprised by the number of wild flowers still in bloom everywhere.  We found Bray Head and our first view of the Skellig Islands.  

Crossing over the bridge back to the mainland – we took a right instead of going straight and were rewarded with the Kerry Cliffs.   This site is on private property and they charged 4 euro per person, but let me tell you – it far surpasses the Cliffs of Moher in character, drama, beauty and hordes of people (none).   It’s a more strenuous hike than Moher (left or right) to the top of the cliffs which are anywhere from 600-900 feet above sea level.  But once there, the panoramas are incredible. 

We got back on the Ring of Kerry route and slowly drove towards Waterville where we found the Charlie Chaplin statue. (yes, it was on my list) As we sat and enjoyed lunch, we watched tour buses drive slowly past the statue so everyone inside could snap their pictures.  Only a small handful of buses actually stopped in Waterville.   Our last stop was the city of Sneem, a very colorful and scenic town. More buses stopped here unfortunately, making the streets and sidewalks crowded.  The one cool attraction of this town is the rock formation under the city bridge.  The rocks are vertical, making the water flow very dramatic.

From here the buses turn left and drive though the valley, meeting back up with the official road through Kenmare at Molly’s Gap.  Back down to the city of Killarney is a small winding road snaking through the Killarney National Forest.  The forest is beautiful, with striking views of the valley and the lakes below.  At the base of the forest drive they offer jaunty cart rides.  Given the time, this would be the best way to see the forest.  Maybe next time, when we come back to do Dingle Peninsula. 

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The King is in the House

They say that everything in Killorglin is judged to happen before or after Puck, "King Puck" that is. The oldest fair in Ireland, Puck Fair, is held August 10-12 every year. No one knows for sure when this festival began, but records show it began around 400 years ago. The story goes when Cromwell was invading the countryside a goat came down from the hills to warn to local villagers. Each year they honor this great heroic act by gathering a 'wild' goat from the mountains and crowning him king for 3 days. The king oversees all the festivities from a cage lifted high above the city square. Well, after reading about this you know I had to add it to my calendar.

The city of Killorglin is not very big, about 2,000 people live in and around it.  The town sits on a hillside at a bend of the River Laune.

They close a couple of city streets and for 3 days thousands of people party with parades, music, vendors selling everything from electric tools to cows. Yes, a local cow fair is held in conjunction with the Puck Fair. Acrobats and clowns wonder the streets, gypsies are there in their RV's to foretell your future - we even saw Elvis, but I could not bring myself to take his picture. Numerous concerts, of a large musical variety, are held each afternoon / evening with puppet shows during the day. They also have a carnival with lots of rides and games.  At then end of the 3 days the local town folk release the goat back to the hills and the fair is over till next year.

We chatted with a local man (on the far right) who participates in this fair each year.  He told us he was in charge of releasing the goat one year and he did not know how the goat would react after 3 days of being in a cage, he cautiously stepped back - not wanting to be butted, but when he opened the cage door the goat looked around, sauntered out and began to chew on a bramble bush - not so much as a thank you. He also told us of the American connection to the fair, the crown itself was made by a fella in Memphis (the king - get it?)  I think he had a touch of the blarney in him.   While he was on stage, and in the middle of a song, he waves and yells "hello to my American friends over there" of-course everyone looked at us.

There used to be a train that ran to the town but it has long since stopped.  The train bridge is now a very cool walking path across the river connecting the east side to the west.   I wish Athlone had such a walking path across River Shannon.

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Victor's Way

Ferryman

This is one of those extremely unusual places, off the beaten path.  I had seen an image of the
"Ferryman" on the internet and just knew I had to find this place. It's not listed on any travel guide in fact we drove by it twice before we decided to take a chance and turn into what looks like a personal drive. I had been looking for Victor's Indian Sculpture Gardens and found Victor's Way (same place).

This is a privately owned attraction that sites on 20 acres of forests, small lakes, multiple paths and has numerous sculptures.  Some made of black granite and some of bronze. I believe the main focus of the garden is on meditation and

spirituality. Actually the owner prefers children not come, hates cell phones and that adults spend as much contemplative time as they like there. The statues are huge, most over 10 feet tall and just as robust in width.  When we arrived there was only two other cars in the gravel parking lot, one on blocks. We did not have to be unsure of what to do or where to go, there are signs everywhere. We dropped our 10 euros in the box and proceeded through Victoria's Gate and out onto a large grassy field.  Sitting in the middle of this field is Lord Ganesha. I believe this was the only Hindu God there. But at the end of the field and at the opening to the forest, we found 5 more Indian elephant characters playing instruments and
2 more dancing.  Each statue included a small mouse somewhere. I'm not sure if all would be considered Ganesha.  We continued on the winding path into a small forest.  Every so often you come across another statue with it's explanation. Be sure to check out the PHOTO ALBUM to see all the statues.  After a few hours of strolling and contemplating life, we came out the other end.  Where there is a gallery of photos from India and a small gift store (also on the honor system).  

We had noticed an older man working around the house and yard, and at one time laying on a bench. When we left he walked across the parking lot, I thanked him for his gardens, asked him how any acres were there and he proceeded to tell us about how it all came to pass.  He is Victor, 78 years young, quite a character and simply, his father built these gardens. He chatted to us for about 20 minutes and I'm not sure what he said the entire time.

Check out one of his pages and you'll understand. I liked these gardens, and I liked him!



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Howth

One always needs to fulfill promises, and I fulfilled one made to a face book friend this past week. Last year when Phil (from Ireland) posted his poster for this charity bike ride (scooters & motor cycles) I told him I would be at the next one. would not be on my scooter, but would come and meet up with him. This years ride took place this past Sunday.  He had posted on his FB page that he was concerned with the weather and was expecting a smaller turn out.  I believe the participation was less, but they actually made more in donations this year than last.

Tom and I drove to Howth, which in itself would be a wonderful place to spend the day.  It's a small village on the Howth peninsula which is north/east of Dublin right along the coast. There is a castle and gardens, couple of museums, a wonderful walking path that circles the peninsula, ruins of a medieval Abbey and bird sanctuary. It a working harbor with lots of boats, private as well as commercial. The harbor is surrounded by a high and long sea wall and old light house built in 1817 at the very end.  I was envious of the beautiful homes that dot the hill side, they must have tremendous views.  A train actually goes directly into the village so I see a train trip in our future, perhaps when all the tourists have gone.   There was much to see and do, but our main focus was to track down Phil and his scooter buddies.  

We parked at the very end of the road, along the sea wall and walked back towards where the village begins and low and behold the street is lined with scooters (be still my heart).   I did not see Phil at first and asked one of the riders is he knew where he was.  We search inside and and and finally we spotted him coming across the street with his hands full.  He stopped and put a box down on a table and looked up just as I snapped his picture.  He recognize me and yelled "SUSAN!!" we hugged like we were long lost best friends.  I introduced him to Tom and the 3 of us stood along the sidewalk and chatted.  His daughter, Emily appeared and he introduced us

to her as well  He got back to his business of collecting funds and we visited with his older brother, Steve. Turns out Steve's got a boat docked at Carrick-on-Shannon and has invited us to take a ride in the next few weeks.  It was a great visit and I'm so happy to have finally met Phil and his daughter.  I hope to see him again before we leave Ireland.

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